It takes more torque for the extruder to push flexible filament out of the nozzle, so make sure the nozzle is adequately primed before your part starts being printed.If you followed the steps to getting your first layer right and your print isn’t sticking, here are some tips to help improve your experience: The key difference: the one on the left had been left in the open air for some unknown amount of time, and the one on the right was printed directly from a PrintDry after letting it dry for several hours. Using the same 3D printer, gcode, and spool of filament, the two 3D prints below were 3D printed. Not only is the visual quality significantly worse, but the molecular chains within the material are broken down, creating a weaker part overall. The sizzling is caused by pockets of water absorbed into the filament instantly turning to steam as they hit the nozzle, leaving voids in your print or causing excessive stringing along your parts. Most flexible filaments are hygroscopic to some degree, and will pop and sizzle if you try extruding before the material is dried. You can also use a vacuum oven to dry your filament in a half hour to an hour, or use a PrintDry to easily dry your filament and keep it dry. ![]() This does mean that you may experience some stringing as the nozzle moves around over the 3D print, but it will prevent you from having under extrusion caused by the filament bunching up in the extruder from the constant back-and-forth motion it would experience with retracting.įollow the same procedures described in this article to dry your flexible filaments: 135 ° F for six hours in a conventional oven, then turn it off and let the oven cool back to room temperature. With an older extruder, you will have to disable retractions to achieve a good 3D print quality. The E3D Hemera has been shown to excel at 3D printing with flexible filaments, being able to keep the filament tightly constrained and 3D print at high speeds without any kinks in the filament. ![]() ![]() With a newer extruder, after first 3D printing some calibration prints, you should be able to print flexibles with retraction settings comparable to your normal rigid filament settings. This isn't a problem for rigid materials as once they are directed to the bowden tube or the nozzle, they will keep extruding without issue, but flexible filaments will almost immediately spit out the side of the extruder and coil around the extruder gear. The latest extruders you can buy make it very clear that they have a "constrained filament path." In older models of extruders, there was open space after the extruder gear for filament to move into. The question of “how much retraction is enough” is entirely dependent on the style of extruder your 3D printer has. Keys to Success by When 3D Printing Flexible Filament: Limited retraction
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